Welcome to our new series of interviews with food writers and bloggers. Each week we will be publishing answers to a series of questions about food critiquing, writing and gaining some insight into the minds of the people who influence how and where we eat. With so many new restaurants popping up and so many failing each year, it’s important to listen to the people who influence your diners before they even step foot in the door.
We start this series off with a big name in restaurant reviews: Andy Hayler.
Andy Hayler’s Restaurant Guide is one of the most widely read food blogs in the country. He has appeared on BBC’s Masterchef program as a guest restaurant critic and has been published numerous times and is the go-to guide for high end eating experiences. Here is a look inside his mind:
1. What got your into food writing?
It started as a hobby, soon after I moved to London in 1983. I started a restaurant newsletter in 1991, and in 1994 had a book on London restaurants published by MacMillan. In 2004 I finished eating at every 3 star restaurant in the world at that time, which generated quite a lot of publicity. My web site was set up in 1996, and in 2006 the Guardian recognized it as one of the most important global restaurant web sites. This activity led to my appearing on Masterchef The Professionals as a regular guest critic, and further writing and speaking. I did a chapter of National Geographic’s “Great food journeys of the world” in 2010, for example. I kept up my Michelin travels, in 2008 and 2010 having eaten at every 3 star restaurant at that time, despite their expansion to USA, China and Japan.
2. How do you choose a restaurant to review?
I focus on London restaurants and 3 star Michelin restaurants globally. The latter are of course driven by the annual release of the various Michelin guides. For London, I keep up with new restaurants through a variety of on-line sources, and these days I am sent information directly by PR companies in considerable volume, so it is important to filter things to a manageable proportion. I focus mainly on high-end places; so do not need to review every new Tex Mex place or burger bar. I focus on the background of the chef: where has he or she cooked before, and in what position, as well as listening to the advice of other reviewers that I trust.
3. How many restaurants do you eat out in per month?
I usually review four to five restaurants a week, so around 20 a month roughly. This is a mix of new places and revisits.
4. Who is your current favourite chef?
It is tough to pick out one chef in London above others. I have been very excited recently by the cooking of Mikael Jonsson at Hedone, due to his passion for top quality ingredients, something that I feel has been lacking in London restaurants. I hope his example will spur more interest in going the extra mile to source genuinely top class products and in proper preparation. For example Hedone makes its own puff pastry, which is superb, something very few restaurants bother to do. Stephen Harris at The Sportsman is another chef with similar ingredient passion.
5. What is your current favourite restaurant concept?
To be honest I am not wild about any restaurant that has to explain a concept. I am less interested in the latest fashion and more interested in whether they can cook high quality food in a welcoming environment for their customers.
6. Most underrated Local Restaurant?
Local restaurants depend on delivering a consistent offering to their local regulars, and treating their guests well. Everyone will have their own favourite depending on where they live. In my own area I like Michael Nadra, who produces high quality food for the inhabitants of Chiswick.
7. How has blogging in general changed your outlook on food/restaurants?
Writing about a meal means that you need to adopt a certain amount of structure to how you approach it. I look for presentation, ingredient quality, technical skill and the harmony of flavours and ingredients in each dish I try.
8. What’s the biggest mistake a restaurant can make in your opinion?
The most commons mistake that ambitious chefs make is trying to over-complicate their dishes. In France or Japan you will often see 3 star restaurants serving dishes with just two or three components, but those components are sourced perfectly and cooked flawlessly. In the UK I often see dishes with endless garnishes, which confuse rather than enhance the dish. Often this is trying to compensate for less than stellar ingredients which, let’s be honest, are expensive.
9. What has been your all-time favourite restaurant experience to date?
My all time best restaurant experience was at Jamin in Paris, which by chance was my first 3 star Michelin meal. Joel Robuchon was at the height of his powers as a chef, and this meal inspired me to take an interest in high end dining. I returned many times to Robuchon, as it later became when it moved premises, and I have yet to eat better food over the course of an entire meal.
Thanks so much Andy
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